Greek Mushroom Stew (Manitaria Stifado)

What is Manitaria Stifado?

Manitaria Stifado originates, as many Greek vegetarian recipes do, from monasteries.
In Greek tradition, monastic kitchens abstained from meat. Monks crafted meals using the bounty of their gardens, leading to recipes that emphasize simplicity and wholesome ingredients. The version from my Greek home to your home is not distinct from the original, besides the fact that I add more spices and use a mix of mushrooms rather than a single variety.
My interest in mushrooms began at a young age, sparked by watching my mother and aunt forage for wild mushrooms. Their approach was meticulous; they skillfully distinguished edible types from poisonous ones. To me, it always seemed like a challenging guessing game, even though they knew how to do it safely. Among all the mushroom recipes I’ve tried, this Greek mushroom stew remains a favorite.

Key Ingredients

• Extra virgin olive oil: Use a high-quality extra virgin olive oil. The oil adds a nice peppery note that enhances the dish’s overall flavor.
• Pearl onions: Pearl onions (either fresh or frozen and defrosted) are traditionally used to make this stew due to their natural sweetness and ability to caramelize well. You can substitute shallots or small yellow onions. Leave them whole if they are smaller than a golf ball; otherwise, cut them in half. 
• Mushrooms: Traditionally, this mushroom stew would likely be made with a single type, but I like to use a mix of button, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms to provide a variety of tastes and textures. Feel free to use any combination of mushrooms you prefer.
• Spices and dried herbs: A combination of seasonings gives this mushroom stew its distinctive character. Allspice, cinnamon, and cloves add warmth and a sweet, slightly bitter flavor. You can use either ground or whole spices (don’t forget to fish them out before serving) to make this mushroom stew. Bay leaves and dried oregano enhance the mushrooms’ savory flavor. I prefer Greek oregano for its intense, pungent, and fragrant peppery flavor.
  • READ MORE: Oregano: Everything You Need to Know About This Essential Mediterranean Herb
• Honey adds a final touch of sweetness that ties together all the savory flavors. 

How to Make Mushroom Stew

When seeking to reduce meat consumption without sacrificing the satisfaction of a hearty meal, mushrooms are my go-to ingredient. Here’s how I make this classic mushroom stew recipe. 

• Prepare the onions and mushrooms. Peeling 1 1/2 pounds pearl onions or small shallots, and halve any that are as large as a golf ball or bigger. If using frozen pearl onions, defrost and drain them. Quarter 1 pound button mushrooms, halve or quarter 1/4 pound Shiitake mushrooms, and tear 1/3 pound oyster mushrooms into bite-size pieces.
• Sauté the onions. Heat 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil in a large sauté pan or pot over medium heat. Add the prepared pearl onions or shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they become slightly golden and caramelized, about 8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the onions from the pan and set them aside, leaving the oil behind.
• Sauté the mushrooms. Add the 2 sliced garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon tomato paste to the pan. Cook, stirring, for about 1 minute until fragrant. Add the mushrooms and stir to combine. Sauté the mixture until browned and the mushrooms have slumped slightly, about 3 minutes.
• Add the spices. Add 1 cup dry red wine, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice, 3/4 teaspoon ground cloves, and 1 cinnamon stick. Add 1 teaspoon dried oregano and 2 bay leaves. Stir well to combine. Return the onions to the pan. Add 1 (15 oz) can tomato puree and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add enough to cover the ingredients, about 1 to 2 cups. Don’t add too much since the mushrooms will release additional liquid during cooking.
• Simmer the stew. Cover the pan with a lid and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer for 30 minutes, covered. Then remove the lid and continue simmering for an additional 20 to 30 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and reduced by about half. Taste the stew and adjust the seasoning as needed.
• Finish and serve. Remove from heat and add 3 tablespoons honey. Mix well to combine. If using whole spices, remove them and serve.

All About Mushrooms

Mushrooms are prized both for their nutrition and flavor. They are rich in protein, nutrients, antioxidants, and low in calories, supporting healthy eating while adding savory notes to dishes. The umami flavor from the mushrooms enhances the recipe and reduces the need for additional salt.

• How to Select Mushrooms: When shopping for mushrooms, it is essential to choose those that are dry and not slimy. The mushrooms should emit a pleasant, earthy aroma rather than a strong odor. They should feel firm to the touch, not mushy.
• How to Store Mushrooms: Store mushrooms unwashed in a brown paper bag in the fridge. The paper absorbs excess moisture and allows the mushrooms to breathe, but creates a humid environment so they don’t dry out. Alternatively, line an air-tight container with paper towels, place the mushrooms on top, and refrigerate to keep them fresher longer.
• How to Clean Mushrooms: Many believe mushrooms must be washed, but it’s often unnecessary. If washing, use minimal water and wash quickly—avoid soaking, as they can absorb moisture and become hard to sauté. Usually, gently brushing off dirt with a brush or wiping with a damp paper towel is best.
• How to Prepare Mushrooms: If the mushroom variety you are using has a stalk, begin by removing the cap. You can then quarter, slice, or chop the mushrooms, or add them whole to your dish. If the stalks are tough, as shiitakes can be, save them for making vegetable broth!

Perfect Pairings

This flavorful stew is versatile and works as either a main course or a side dish. Traditionally, one would serve it with crusty bread and a crisp green Maroulosalata, or with a Greek-style olive oil potato mash.
You can also serve it over fluffy basmati rice or spoon it generously over your favorite pasta. To complete the meal, a glass of red wine is an ideal pairing, complementing the stew’s deep, robust flavors.